Side by side
Serpenti or Panthère de Cartier
Bulgari · Cartier
Serpenti
A gold serpent that winds once or many times round wrist, finger or neck, its body a supple coil or a run of articulated scales.
Panthère de Cartier
The panther as the house's own animal: first a pattern of spots, then a whole cat in gold, lacquer, onyx and green garnet.
In 1948 Rome and Paris each gave an animal its body. Bulgari's first Serpenti was a bracelet-watch whose snake was a flexible coil made by the Tubogas technique; enamel followed in the 1960s, then the hexagonal scale now repeated on Serpenti Viper rings and bangles. That same year Jeanne Toussaint turned Cartier's panther, a pattern of spots since 1914, into a sculpted cat for the Duchess of Windsor. Panthère de Cartier now watches from a gold head with tsavorite eyes, while the serpent winds round the wrist.
| Fact | Serpenti | Panthère de Cartier |
|---|---|---|
| Introduced | 1948 | 1914 |
| Designer | — | Jeanne Toussaint |
| School | Rome | Place Vendôme |
| Materials | rose gold, yellow gold, white gold, diamond, enamel, malachite, mother-of-pearl, onyx | yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, platinum, diamond, emerald, tsavorite, onyx, sapphire, ruby, lacquer |
| Moves | No | No |
| From | €1,670 | €4,400 |
| Top of line | €2,770 | €610,000 |
Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.
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