13 ideas
Ideas
Every great house keeps returning to a handful of them. So do the rest.
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The gold band 19 houses · Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co.… Gold with nothing set in it, where the profile, the twist or the stack is the whole idea.
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The screw and the bolt 6 houses · Van Cleef & Arpels, FRED, Cartier… From 1966 to 1976 jewellers raided the toolbox for screws, nails, shackles and locks.
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The snake 2 houses · Bulgari, Boucheron Coiled round the arm since antiquity, and wound on a Tubogas spring since 1948.
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The cabochon 3 houses · Pomellato, FRED, Vhernier Polish a stone instead of faceting it and you trade its fire for colour and depth.
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The chain as the piece 9 houses · Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, DoDo… When the link stops carrying a pendant and becomes the whole jewel.
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The quatrefoil and the flower 15 houses · Boucheron, Cartier, Harry Winston… A clover drawn for luck in 1968, and the petals other houses have offered in reply.
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The pearl 2 houses · MIKIMOTO, TASAKI Ago Bay, 1893: Mikimoto's half-round pearls, and the end of the pearl as pure chance.
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The pavé sphere 12 houses · Boucheron, Boodles, Harry Winston… A street of small diamonds, set so close that the metal vanishes.
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The knot and the link 12 houses · Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels… Knotted, interlaced, hooked: jewelry about two things held as one.
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The animal 7 houses · Boucheron, Cartier, DoDo… Most great houses keep an animal; Cartier's has been the panther since 1914.
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The moving element 6 houses · Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard… It rolls, it slides, it unzips: the jewel that will not keep still.
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The single stone 13 houses · Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Harry Winston… One stone, and a setting that exists only to lift it into the light.
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The emblem and the coin 6 houses · Tiffany & Co., Chaumet, dinh van… The jewel as signature: a letter, a key tag, a house name cut twice, a coin from Rome.