Écrin

Ideas

The gold band

Same idea, 19 houses.

Also touching the gold band

Lineage

  1. 1924 Trinity Cartier
  2. 1941 Tubogas Bulgari
  3. 1959 Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Sixteen Stone Tiffany & Co.
  4. 1969 LOVE Cartier
  5. 1970 Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff Tiffany & Co.
  6. 1971 Juste un Clou Cartier
  7. 1975 Serrure dinh van
  8. 1982 The Cable Collection David Yurman
  9. 1990 Possession Piaget
  10. 1999 B.zero1 Bulgari
  11. 1999 Ice Cube Chopard
  12. 2003 Allegra de Grisogono
  13. 2004 Quatre Boucheron
  14. 2008 Perlée Van Cleef & Arpels
  15. 2011 Bee de Chaumet Chaumet
  16. 2013 Antifer Repossi
  17. 2014 Extremely Piaget Piaget
  18. 2017 Iconica Pomellato
  19. 2020 Fantina Pomellato
  20. 2023 Sculpted Cable David Yurman
  21. 2023 Pomellato Together Pomellato

Where it came from

Slide three plain rings onto one finger and they knock against each other. In 1924 Louis Cartier linked them instead, one each in yellow, rose and white gold, so that they roll over one another as the hand moves. The Trinity carries no stone and needs none. Its subject is the band: the colour of the metal, its profile, the way it turns.

Milan and Rome worked the surface. In the 1920s Mario Buccellati began piercing sheets of gold by hand into a hexagonal tulle, after Venetian needle-lace, and in 1941 Bulgari wound a gold band tightly round itself, like the flexible tubing of a gas pipe, for the first Tubogas bracelet, which springs round the wrist without a hinge. Elsa Peretti drew a cuff from the bones of the wrist in 1970, and David Yurman twisted gold wire into a helix for his first Cable piece in 1982.

The last great bands of the century came close together. Bulgari's B.zero1 of 1999 took its spiral from the tiers of the Colosseum; Boucheron's Quatre of 2004 pressed four archive motifs, grosgrain ribbing and Clou de Paris facets among them, into one ring without glue or solder. Much of what followed reads as reply. Van Cleef & Arpels gave its gold beads a line of their own as Perlée in 2008, and Pomellato took its first band ring of 1970 and thickened it into Iconica for the house's fiftieth year.

Side by side

Other ideas

All ideas