Écrin

The quatrefoil and the flower

Opera or Hortensia

Buccellati · Chaumet

Opera

Buccellati

Opera

The Buccellati emblem, a four-petalled rosette of winding lines, cut out and worn as the jewel itself: in engraved gold, in diamond pavé, or laid over a pierced tulle lattice.

Hortensia

Chaumet

Hortensia

Hydrangea florets gathered into pompoms, garlands and posies, the flower repeated in gold petals, pink opal and pavé.

Pink opal and angel-skin coral filled the first twenty-four Hortensia pieces, which Chaumet showed in autumn 2013 under Claire Dévé-Rakoff, hydrangea florets heaped into pompoms in memory of Joséphine's Malmaison. Opera, two years younger, is less botanical. Buccellati cut out its own emblem, a rosette of winding lines with Renaissance roots, named the line for Italian opera and La Scala, and set it in engraved gold, pavé and tulle.

Buccellati Opera vs Chaumet Hortensia, facts side by side
FactOperaHortensia
Introduced20152013
Designer—Claire Dévé-Rakoff
SchoolMilan & ValenzaPlace Vendôme
Materialsyellow gold, white gold, rose gold, platinum, diamond, mother-of-pearl, chalcedony, sapphire, emeraldrose gold, white gold, yellow gold, diamond, opal, sapphire, ruby, coral, tourmaline, mother-of-pearl
MovesNoNo
FromNot publishedNot published

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.

More with Opera

More with Hortensia