Nudo or Freccia

Both rings try to make colour float, and both come from the Milan and Valenza school. Pomellato's Nudo, launched in 2001, sets a square cushion of garnet, peridot or tourmaline on a thin rose-gold shank with no claws, its collet hidden, and later paired stones as doublets. Vhernier's Freccia gets there by layering, its trasparenza: slices of opal or black jade under a domed arrowhead of carved rock crystal, so the colour seems to sit deep inside a lens.