Opera or Calla

Buccellati · Vhernier

Opera

The Buccellati emblem, a four-petalled rosette of winding lines, cut out and worn as the jewel itself: in engraved gold, in diamond pavé, or laid over a pierced tulle lattice.

Calla

Vhernier

Calla

One smooth cone, furled like a calla lily, hung alone on a necklace whose clasp disappears.

Calla is a study in leaving things out: Vhernier's necklace of 1998 is one smooth cone, furled like the lily, on a chain whose clasp is hidden, and the design is nothing more than that. Opera, which Buccellati presented in Paris in 2015, goes the other way, filling the outline of its four-petalled rosette emblem with chased lines, diamonds or the pierced tulle lattice for which the Milan house is known.

Buccellati Opera vs Vhernier Calla, facts side by side
Fact	Opera	Calla
Introduced	2015	1998
School	Milan & Valenza	Milan & Valenza
Materials	yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, platinum, diamond, mother-of-pearl, chalcedony, sapphire, emerald	rose gold, white gold, wood, diamond
Moves	No	No
From	Not published	Not published

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.

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