Écrin

The gold band

Tulle or Perlée

Buccellati · Van Cleef & Arpels

Tulle

Buccellati

Tulle

A half-millimetre sheet of gold pierced by hand into hundreds of minute hexagonal cells, so the metal reads like net lace.

Perlée

Van Cleef & Arpels

Perlée

The house's oldest ornament, the polished gold bead, made into the whole jewel: bangles, rings and hoops lined with rows of tiny golden spheres.

The 1920s gave both houses their ornament. In Milan, Mario Buccellati began piercing gold sheet into minute hexagons after the needle lace of Venice, the technique called tulle. In Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels began edging its pieces with small gold beads, which became Perlée in 2008. Tulle is all openings, gold sawn away until it reads as net; Perlée is all volume, spheres polished even on the side that touches skin.

Buccellati Tulle vs Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée, facts side by side
FactTullePerlée
Introduced—2008
DesignerMario Buccellati—
SchoolMilan & ValenzaPlace Vendôme
Materialsyellow gold, white gold, diamondyellow gold, rose gold, white gold, diamond, carnelian, malachite
MovesNostacks
FromNot published€880
Top of line—€515,000

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.