Écrin

The quatrefoil and the flower

Grain de Café or Bouton d'or

Cartier · Van Cleef & Arpels

Grain de Café ring in yellow and white gold: four grooved gold coffee beans tipped with diamonds, on a pale grey ground.
Image © Cartier

Cartier

Grain de Café

The coffee bean, full and grooved down its middle, cast in gold and gathered into clusters.

Bouton d'or

Van Cleef & Arpels

Bouton d'or

Little discs of gold, each with a stone at its centre, massed in rows and rings like the head of a buttercup.

Born in Paris two years apart, both ideas waited decades for a second life. Van Cleef & Arpels set a stone in the middle of small gold discs in 1936, echoing the sequins on evening gowns of the decade, and revived them in 2016 as Bouton d'or, massed like a buttercup's head. Toussaint's Grain de Café beans for Cartier date from 1938 and came back in 2023, starting with a reissue of a 1955 necklace. Flat, flickering discs and swelling, grooved beans: the same decade's gold, read two ways.

Cartier Grain de Café vs Van Cleef & Arpels Bouton d'or, facts side by side
FactGrain de CaféBouton d'or
Introduced19382016
DesignerJeanne Toussaint—
SchoolPlace VendômePlace Vendôme
Materialsyellow gold, white gold, platinum, diamond, tourmalineyellow gold, rose gold, white gold, diamond, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, mother-of-pearl
MovesNoNo
From€7,900Not published
Top of line€371,000—

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.

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