Écrin

The chain as the piece

Hawaii or Parentesi

Buccellati · Bulgari

Hawaii

Buccellati

Hawaii

Hundreds of tiny rings, each coiled by hand from twisted gold thread and linked like the flowers of a lei, so a necklace moves like knitted cord.

Parentesi

Bulgari

Parentesi

A bracket-shaped gold link, repeated and locked into necklaces and bracelets like the joints between Roman paving stones.

Handwork and system pull these two Italian chains apart. Hawaii, drawn by Mario Buccellati in the 1930s, is made of tiny circles of twisted gold thread, each coiled and linked by hand, so the necklace moves like knitted cord. Parentesi, which Gianni Bulgari introduced in Rome in 1982, is built from a single repeated bracket-shaped link, the house's first modular jewelry. Between them they cover most of what an Italian chain can be, from garland to pavement.

Buccellati Hawaii vs Bulgari Parentesi, facts side by side
FactHawaiiParentesi
Introduced—1982
DesignerMario BuccellatiGianni Bulgari
SchoolMilan & ValenzaRome
Materialsyellow gold, white gold, rose gold, diamond, opal, chalcedony, jadeyellow gold, white gold, steel, diamond
MovesNoNo
FromNot publishedNot published

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.