Écrin

The chain as the piece

Hawaii or Catene

Buccellati · Pomellato

Hawaii

Buccellati

Hawaii

Hundreds of tiny rings, each coiled by hand from twisted gold thread and linked like the flowers of a lei, so a necklace moves like knitted cord.

Catene ring: large polished rose-gold gourmette links mounted on a solid band, on a pale grey ground.
Image © Pomellato

Pomellato

Catene

The plump gourmette link Pomellato has made since its first season, blown up and softened until three or four articulated links become the whole ring.

Milan made both, close to a century apart. Mario Buccellati, who opened his shop in the city in 1919, drew Hawaii in the 1930s: hundreds of small rings coiled from twisted gold thread and linked like the blossoms of a lei. Vincenzo Castaldo's Catene, from 2021, starts from the opposite end of the chain-maker's craft, a single gourmette link swollen until three or four of them form a ring. Buccellati multiplies the link; Pomellato magnifies it.

Buccellati Hawaii vs Pomellato Catene, facts side by side
FactHawaiiCatene
Introduced—2021
DesignerMario BuccellatiVincenzo Castaldo
SchoolMilan & ValenzaMilan & Valenza
Materialsyellow gold, white gold, rose gold, diamond, opal, chalcedony, jaderose gold, yellow gold, white gold, diamond, coloured diamond
MovesNoNo
FromNot published€8,100
Top of line—€45,000

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.