Écrin

The gold band

Africa or Perlée

Marco Bicego · Van Cleef & Arpels

Africa necklace of graduated hand-engraved yellow-gold beads laid in a circle on an off-white ground.
Image © Marco Bicego

Marco Bicego

Africa

Slightly lopsided beads of 18k yellow gold, each scored by hand with a burin into thousands of fine lines, strung in graduated rows so the satin surface glows rather than shines.

Perlée

Van Cleef & Arpels

Perlée

The house's oldest ornament, the polished gold bead, made into the whole jewel: bangles, rings and hoops lined with rows of tiny golden spheres.

Gold beads are the whole idea of both, finished in opposite ways. Van Cleef & Arpels gave its beads, an edging since the 1920s, a line of their own in 2008: Perlée rows of tiny spheres polished to a shine on the back as well as the front. Marco Bicego's Africa beads are deliberately uneven, and instead of polishing them he scores them with a burin into a satin that softens the light.

Marco Bicego Africa vs Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée, facts side by side
FactAfricaPerlée
Introduced—2008
DesignerMarco Bicego—
SchoolMilan & ValenzaPlace Vendôme
Materialsyellow gold, pearl, diamondyellow gold, rose gold, white gold, diamond, carnelian, malachite
MovesNostacks
From€950€880
Top of line€58,200€515,000

Prices in euros as published by each house, October 2026.